Izumo-shi, Ōtsumachi, just south of Kandachi-bashi

Thursday, 26 March 2026 - When I look back on my travels, it's scenes like this one I worry most about forgetting: a narrow asphalt path, receding in a straight line into the distance, a grassy embankment on one side, some houses on the other, and no recogniseable landmarks to tell you where this might be. The sky is a bright blue. There is a scattering of clouds. It's a beautiful day, just like so many other beautiful days.

This photo was taken as I rode my bicycle into Izumo, having cycled all the way from Matsue. My journey wasn't over yet. I had to make my way through Izumo-shi itself, all the way to the other side of the city, following a narrow river until I arrived at the sea of Japan coast, then riding northward to Inasa Beach, and finishing at Izumotaishamae Station.

What you don't see in this picture is the relief I felt, mixed with uncertainty and anxiety. I had to arrive at Izumotaishamae by about 5pm, to catch my train back to Matsue. It was now 2.30pm. I had ridden several hours already to get here. I was tired. Prior to this I had been able to cycle quite quickly, the last 10km or so on a dedicated bicycle highway. From here on, though, I would be riding through the city, on its streets. How quickly would I be able to go. I had to be careful not to bump into any pedestrians. There would be traffic, and traffic lights. The end didn't seem close at all on the map. Would I be able to make it?

I did, eventually. With just a little bit of time to spare. But my anxiety had not been misplaced. Those last couple of hours were the slowest and most tedious. Stopping and going and stopping and going. They don't tell you this in the brochures. What a strange person I am, to seek out experiences like this.